Everyone is talking about exosomes in skin care — here’s why

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Though they’re already a popular medical-grade treatment in Korea , exosomes are quickly flooding the at-home skin care space in the United States. It’s the latest trend on what seems like every skin care brand’s radar, and because it promises youthful, glowing skin, reduced inflammation and better overall skin health, you may even be able to replace your current retinols and hyaluronic acid serums with it.

“Exosomes are skin care gold for brands looking to market innovation,” says Dr. Mona Gohara , a board-certified dermatologist at Dermatology Physicians of Connecticut. Though they’re buzzy, it’s worth noting that no exosome product is currently approved for cosmetic use by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. “The potential is real, but regulation hasn’t caught up,” says Gohara.

Wondering if exosomes are really a “cure-all”? I spoke to board-certified dermatologists to find out exactly what they can do for your skin and compiled a list of products to consider trying.

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What are exosomes?

Exosomes are tiny, naturally-occurring vesicles released by nearly all types of cells — including skin cells, stem cells and platelets — that carry and protect proteins, lipids and genetic material. Think of exosomes as microscopic delivery trucks: Each one carries a “package” of proteins, lipids, growth factors and microRNA that help regulate how nearby cells behave.

As it pertains to skin care, exosomes facilitate cell to cell communication and give a pathway for skin cells to “talk” to each other, says board-certified dermatologist Dr. Corey L. Hartman . This results in them acting as messengers that deliver instructions to other cells to help calm inflammation, repair damaged tissue and increase collagen and elastin production (which usually deplete as we age, leading to sagging, wrinkly skin), says Gohara. “Think of them as a high-tech signaling system that coordinates skin regeneration,” she says. Meanwhile, the genetic material that the exosomes carry in their “delivery trucks,” like mRNA, influences gene expression, which essentially reprograms skin cells to behave more like younger, healthier cells, says Dr. Asmi Berry , board-certified dermatologist and beauty biohacker in Los Angeles.

Exosomes are typically formulated into serums because they penetrate deeper into the skin and are more stable in low-water, minimal-ingredient formulas, says Berry. While you can find them in moisturizers and creams, too, these formulations may weaken their effects, she says.

Highly-rated exosome serums to try

Below, I rounded up skin care products with exosomes that are dermatologist-recommended or from brands we’ve previously covered.

Best overall exosome serum

Plated Intense Serum

Plated’s serum , which comes recommended by Dr. Joshua Korman , board-certified plastic surgeon and founder of Korman Plastic Surgery, is made from human-derived exosomes, so it’s more effective than those derived from plants or animals. It’s gentle enough for all skin tones, and made specifically for those looking to target redness , inflammation and fine lines, according to the brand.

Plated uses a safe and ethical process for extracting human platelets, which involves working with compliant blood banks in the U.S., according to the brand. In addition to platelet-derived exosomes, the serum has hyaluronic acid and antioxidants to help address dark spots, redness and fine lines and wrinkles, according to the brand.

You can use the serum once daily (either at night or in the morning) after cleansing your skin and before the rest of your skin care routine . Make sure you give the product a few minutes to fully absorb before applying your other products.

Best exosome balm for sensitive skin

Skinfix Exo + Ectoin Retinol-Alternative Intensive Skin Barrier Repair Baume

This Skinfix baume , which has a thicker texture than a serum, is a favorite of both Gohara and Hartman because it’s fragrance-free and great for sensitive skin. “It combines exosomes with ectoin, a powerful stress-protection molecule, to deeply hydrate, soothe and visibly strengthen the skin barrier , especially for sensitive or compromised skin,” says Gohara. It leverages exosomes not just for reducing fine lines and wrinkles, but for skin resilience, too, according to Gohara. Apply one to two pumps on your face, neck and chest at night after cleansing and before moisturizing. You can also use it as an overnight treatment mask in place of your nightly moisturizer , according to Skinfix.

Best value exosome serum

The Inkey List Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex Serum

If you’re looking for a budget-friendly option, this The Inkey List serum has plant-derived exosomes that help to boost collagen production. I’ve used a pea-sized amount of this serum every night for the past two weeks after the brand sent me a bottle to try out, and it’s had a noticeable impact on how glowy and hydrated my skin looks first thing in the morning. I combine it with a hyaluronic acid serum and a gentle retinol, which has been a great, sensitive skin-friendly combination as someone with rosacea-prone skin . You can use it morning and night — apply it on clean skin and can follow it with any preferred treatments (like retinol), moisturizer and SPF , according to the brand.

Best splurge-worthy exosome serum

111Skin Exosome Face Lift

If you’re willing to seriously splurge on a quality product, consider the Exosome Face Lift from 111Skin. It’s a two-step treatment, including the brand’s Exosome Shot Serum (step one to lift and tighten your skin) and the Exosome Overnight Mask (step two to repair skin and protect your skin barrier). The brand sent me a sample of the treatment to test out, and I’ve been so happy with the results — I’ve used both steps for the past two weeks, and I’ve noticed my skin looks brighter and more lifted (the brand recommends using the treatment for four weeks to see results, so I will update this article with my experience).

Best microneedling alternative exosome serum

Medicube One Day Exosome Shot Serum

This highly-rated Medicube serum is an OTC and non-invasive alternative to microneedling, according to the brand; it’s a spicule serum, which means the formula has microscopic, needle-like structures that are coated in exosomes. You can’t see the tiny liquid microneedles, but you’ll probably feel some sharpness and tingling when you apply it, according to the brand. It penetrates your pores more deeply than a typical topical formula and has chemical exfoliants like AHAs , niacinamide and amino acids to help improve skin texture, according to Medicube. Use this at night after cleansing and follow it with a moisturizer.

Best exosome serum for mature skin

Dr. Barbara Sturm Exoso-Metic Face Serum

This Dr. Barbara Sturm serum is an excellent option for those with mature skin . It has lab-derived exosomes and growth factors paired with vitamin E to plump, firm and protect skin from free radical damage, according to the brand. You can apply it to your face, neck and chest morning and night, but let it dry for a few minutes first before following it up with a moisturizer.

Are exosomes safe and FDA approved?

The FDA has not approved any exosome products at this time, and research is still in early stages (FDA approval means the agency has determined through clinical trials that the product is safe and effective for its intended use). However, cosmetic products and ingredients (other than color additives) don’t need FDA approval before they go on the market, so you can find skin care serums and moisturizers with exosomes in them. Despite this, there are still laws and regulations brands must follow.

“Because cosmetic treatments do not require FDA approval to go to the market, there is no requirement for the topical product to be proven as an effective treatment,” says NYC cosmetic dermatologist Dr. Michele Green . In fact, the FDA issued a warning in 2020 against regenerative medicine products, specifically products containing stem cells and exosomes, because people are commonly misled about their efficacy.

Any skin care brand can sell products with exosomes, since skin care isn’t required to have FDA approval. To ensure any topical you’re applying or buying is actually safe, always use a reputable brand that’s clear about its ingredients and where it sources them, says Green.

How do exosomes in skin care work?

In skin care, exosomes are mainly found in at-home topicals and within in-office treatments. Topical exosome formulas work well, but they don’t always penetrate the skin enough to provide the best regenerative benefits (like stimulating collagen production), says Hartman. That’s why many dermatologists prefer to use exosomes alongside in-office treatments like microneedling, which involves a small needled device that makes microchannels in the skin. Derms will apply an exosome serum immediately after microneedling so the serum penetrates deeper into the skin and helps in the healing process.

“When delivered through open microchannels, their effects, especially on collagen production, are likely more pronounced,” says Gohara. “Medical-grade exosomes are used to supercharge healing, reduce post-procedure inflammation and stimulate collagen formation.” But again, exosome treatments are not yet FDA approved for skin care use.

Most over-the-counter topical exosome serums use lab-made or plant-derived exosomes, which are safe and hydrating, but they don’t have the same regenerative benefits you would get from human-derived exosomes (which are typically used in doctors’ offices), says Berry. Keep in mind that serums with human-derived exosomes are very expensive, usually costing above $100.

What is exosome therapy?

Exosome therapy (usually known as exosome stem cell therapy) is an in-office treatment that involves applying exosome serums derived from human stem cells or platelets during or after skin treatments like microneedling, laser resurfacing or radiofrequency, says Gohara. For aesthetic purposes, dermatologists will often turn to dermal fibroblast exosomes, which signal the fibroblasts to produce more collagen and elastin, says Green.

Exosomes work well when they’re injected into the skin, but there are safety concerns with the practice, including scarring, irritation or infections (in addition to not enough evidence of efficacy), according to Hartman and Korman. Dermatologists I spoke with recommend sticking to over-the-counter serums by reputable brands for at-home use, and microneedling performed by a licensed dermatologist or skin care professional.

Are exosomes effective?

It’s no surprise brands are continuously looking for new, buzzy ingredients to incorporate into products, and exosomes manage to tap into the balance of regenerative science and natural healing. Though exosomes are promising, are they going to revolutionize topical skin care? Hartman doesn’t think so. “There isn’t enough research to show that exosomes perform at the same level, or better, than highly-researched and proven regenerative skin care ingredients like retinol, peptides , ceramides and niacinamide ,” he says.

“I see the most potential in medical-grade exosome skin care, especially products that use purified, lab-cultured exosomes post-treatment to support healing, collagen production and skin rejuvenation,” says Berry. “Many mass-market products just borrow the word ‘exosome.’ Unless the exosomes are biologically active and clinically sourced, they’re unlikely to deliver true regenerative results.” That means don’t expect dramatic results from plant-derived exosomes, though they can offer gentle skin repair and hydration, says Berry.

As mentioned, cosmetic topicals don’t need to undergo the strict testing associated with receiving FDA approval, which makes their effectiveness unclear, says Green. Also, exosomes need specific conditions to remain stable and active, so quality control is everything — whether exosomes remain stable in topical, over-the-counter formulas is still unknown (and fairly unlikely), experts say. However, that doesn’t completely diminish their effectiveness.

The final verdict? Exosomes have several topical benefits, but research is still in its early stages. “They’re not miracle workers on their own, but when used correctly, especially after procedures or combined with proven actives, they can be a powerful way to enhance your skin’s recovery and glow,” says Berry.

How do exosomes compare to other regenerative skin care ingredients?